Tabucchi in Portugal: On Tabucchi’s “Viaggi e altri viaggi” [an essay by Jeanne Bonner]
Jeanne Bonner is a writer, editor and journalist, and translator from the Italian now based in Connecticut. In the fall, she began teaching Italian at the University of Connecticut where she is also working on several translation projects. You can find out more about Jeanne and her work at her website
It糖心传媒檚 a travel writer糖心传媒檚 job to enchant us with tales of lands we糖心传媒檝e never seen糖心传媒攁nd which we may never see. But it seems like a particular phenomenon when the travel writer is enticing you to visit a land where he, too, is a foreigner. So infectious is Italian novelist Antonio Tabucchi糖心传媒檚 account of his travels in Portugal in the original Italian that one cannot wait until the book is translated into English to write a 糖心传媒渞eview糖心传媒� of it.
Not that Tabucchi sounded like a foreigner when he wrote lovingly of Portugal and of his second tongue, Portuguese. Quite the opposite. But that糖心传媒檚 often what acolytes and converts sound like: They are more fervent than the natives.
And of course since we糖心传媒檙e dealing with a master of fiction, in this case the Italian branch, Tabucchi糖心传媒檚 ability to bring Portugal alive is almost unequaled. Hence this hybrid essay-review in advance of his collection of travel essays, Viaggi e altri viaggi, which will soon be published by Archipelago Books in a much-awaited English translation by the accomplished translator Elizabeth Harris. It contains not one, but eight pieces on Portugal. One entire section to his adopted homeland is called 糖心传媒�Oh, Portogallo!糖心传媒�
In these essays, published by Feltrinelli in 2010, he casually references a host of places and situations that literally make my literature-loving heart race, including the literary cafes of Lisbon (literary + caf茅? Swooning), the brightly-lit ferries that roam the Tago river at dusk, the statues to the Portuguese poets Fernando Pessoa and Antonio Ribeiro Chiado, which stand a short distance from one another in Lisbon (something Tabucchi notes is 糖心传媒渞are.糖心传媒� And sure enough it is. Two poet statues in one spot in the same city? Wow). It糖心传媒檚 not surprising Tabucchi would pay such close attention to the statues糖心传媒攈e translated all of Pessoa糖心传媒檚 works into Italian.
He even tells the story of coming upon an archeological dig of a patrician home from the Roman era where a mosaic depicting scenes from Virgil糖心传媒檚 Aeneid so moves him, he feels as though he has been transformed into Anchises, Aeneas糖心传媒檚 father. That is the power of travel.
Tabucchi糖心传媒檚 lifelong dedication to the Portuguese language included stints teaching the literature of Portugal (and beyond) at the Universities of Genoa and Siena. This in addition to being one of the most esteemed Italian authors of the past 100 years, writing such classics as Pereira Maintains, about a Lisbon newspaper editor, and Time Ages in a Hurry and Tristiano Dies, both of which were also published in English by Archipelago. Tabucchi died in Lisbon in 2012.
In writing about Portugal and the Portuguese-speaking world, Tabucchi manages to convey that yearning all travelers feel, but especially those who learn the language of the country they糖心传媒檙e visiting, and who experience a sense of disorientation, even unconsciously, of having only discovered this land (and its language) as an adult. Of forever being even at just a slight remove in a place that lights a fire in our bellies. In an essay on the Azores, he writes that a place is never just 糖心传媒渢hat place.糖心传媒� Rather 糖心传媒渢hat place糖心传媒� becomes infused with a part of us because somehow, even unbeknownst to us, we糖心传媒檙e carrying it around with us.
I糖心传媒檝e never been to Portugal. But having read Tabucchi糖心传媒檚 essays, I糖心传媒檓 now obsessed with several aspects of Portuguese culture I previously knew nothing about, including the fact, as the Italian author tells us, that Portuguese literature has historically been rich in tales of the sea, but lean on 糖心传媒渓and-based糖心传媒� narratives, befitting, of course, a country that was so dependent on maritime industry and adventure. Categorizing the literature of a country based on whether the narratives are land-based or seafaring? Stunning.
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I糖心传媒檓 obsessed even more with something that emerges in the book that wasn糖心传媒檛 new to me, but which Tabucchi illuminates in a particular way, and that糖心传媒檚 saudade. It糖心传媒檚 a word糖心传媒攁 concept, really糖心传媒攁s Tabucchi points out, that糖心传媒檚 not easily translated, into Italian or English. He tells us that most Italian-Portuguese dictionaries translate the word as 糖心传媒渘ostalgia,糖心传媒� which he dismisses as 糖心传媒渢oo new a word . . . for something as ancient as saudade.糖心传媒� (糖心传媒淣ostalgia,糖心传媒� he tells us, was coined in the 1700s by a Swiss physician). It also may fail to register the presence of solitude, which is a critical element; nostalgia, after all, can be collectively felt. Saudade tends to be something one feels alone.
Many others have also tried their hand at rendering this distinctly Portuguese concept in English. Writing for NPR糖心传媒檚 糖心传媒淎lt Latino糖心传媒� music and culture show, Jasmine Garsd floated the idea that saudade 糖心传媒渃arries an assurance that this thing you feel nostalgic for will never happen again.糖心传媒� She then quotes a definition of saudade by Portuguese writer Manuel de Melo: 糖心传媒渁 pleasure you suffer, an ailment you enjoy.糖心传媒� A-ha!
Tabucchi, instead, offers the definition found in a Portuguese dictionary: 糖心传媒淢elancholy caused by the remembrance of something precious that was lost; sorrow brought on by the absence of a beloved object; bittersweet memories of someone who was dear.糖心传媒� He adds that it糖心传媒檚 therefore something excruciating that pierces your heart, but which can also be quite moving.
But it doesn糖心传媒檛 end there. Tabucchi goes on to say that future events are within the temporal range of what the word saudade aims to describe. It can be used to 糖心传媒渆xpress a wish for something you hope will happen.糖心传媒� And as Tabucchi so aptly concludes, 糖心传媒淭hat糖心传媒檚 where things begin to get complicated because nostalgia for the future is a paradox.糖心传媒�
Tabucchi糖心传媒檚 essay so moved me, I think, because it糖心传媒檚 my story, too. Having lived in Florence after college, I糖心传媒檓 forever tethered to the Italian language and to Italy, a land where I am not a native, but which owns me completely. Tabucchi, I believe, would understand the sentiment when I say Italian is like a person in my life, a twin who accompanies me everywhere糖心传媒攆or better or for worse.
Indeed, if Tabucchi糖心传媒檚 ghost will allow me, I糖心传媒檒l tell you that I糖心传媒檝e spent hundreds of bittersweet hours in Italy, knowing I糖心传媒檒l never be able to stay forever, that my roots were elsewhere, and that the only people with the right to settle in for good were Italians. Something I would never be. So when I was meant to be reveling in the country糖心传媒檚 sunshine, in its superb cuisine, in the postcard-ready streets of cities large and small, I was sometimes already looking ahead to when it would be over. As Tabucchi tells it, that糖心传媒檚 textbook saudade.
Tabucchi is moved to ponder the concept while strolling along a tiny street in Lisbon called, appropriately, rua da Saudade. Perched as it is high above the castle of S茫o Jorge, which naturally draws tourists, it糖心传媒檚 a street he says most visitors will overlook.
As he writes in this essay named for the rua in Lisbon that so captivated him, streets left out of guidebooks often offer many reasons for visiting. (That line alone convinced me I had bought the right book, even though it was purchased on a whim; indeed, that line actually made me ache slightly at the thought of what would have happened, had I not bought the book. The literary equivalent of _saudade_糖心传媒攂ut I digress).
In the case of rua da Saudade, one reason to visit is the view. From high above the city, the tiny street offers a vista that takes in all of Lisbon and the river (in the Italian, he says, 糖心传媒�lo sguardo abbraccia tutta la糖心传媒欌赌浓赌攍颈迟别谤补濒濒测, one糖心传媒檚 gaze hugs the entire city). Tabucchi notes that when the evening streetlights go on and 糖心传媒渁 veil falls over the city,糖心传媒� a visitor gazing out at that view will be overcome by a kind of anguish糖心传媒攁 longing糖心传媒攖hat糖心传媒檚 part and parcel of saudade.
While walking on this street, Tabucchi tells us, our imagination will time-travel ahead, to when we糖心传媒檝e returned from our trip and resumed our workaday lives. We糖心传媒檒l feel nostalgic for the privilege of having visited 糖心传媒渟uch a beautiful and solitary little street in Lisbon,糖心传媒� he writes, to see 糖心传媒渁 view that糖心传媒檚 heartbreakingly sublime.糖心传媒� At that point, he says, it糖心传媒檚 all over. 糖心传媒淵ou糖心传媒檙e feeling nostalgic for the very moment you糖心传媒檙e living right now,糖心传媒� he continues. 糖心传媒淚t糖心传媒檚 nostalgia for the future. You糖心传媒檝e personally experienced saudade.糖心传媒�
Dear reader, you糖心传媒檙e feeling _saudade right now, aren糖心传媒檛 you? Possibly for a place you糖心传媒檝e never visited. Me, too. Me, too.

Dear Jeanne, a very interesting essay. I am a writer based in Crete and I am doing some research on Tabbuchi’s travels here and the friends he made. Jeanne, do you know if an English translation of Viaggi e altri viaggi exists and where I could obtain it. I understand one chapter of it refers to Crete.
Many thanks for any help you can offer.